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Compare · two sub-seasons

Soft Summer vs True Winter: The Four Real Differences

Soft Summer or True Winter? Summer and Winter are both cool seasons, so it sounds like a close call. It isn’t. All four axes pull these two apart. Haze against crispness. Blended against bold. Your face shows it fast.

Fabrics and accessories in the powdery colors of the Soft Summer palette

1Summer sub-season

Soft Summer

Leads with softness · neutral to cool

Fabrics, ribbons and a fuchsia flower in the cool, crisp colors of the True Winter palette

2Winter sub-season

True Winter

Leads with coolness · very cool

Side by side

Soft Summer and True Winter palettes

Same scale, same page: look at the swatches before you read the differences.

  • Dusty Rose#C48A94
  • Tea Rose#D9A8AE
  • Muted Raspberry#A85068
  • Soft Burgundy#8A4756
  • Soft Plum#7B5871
  • Grayed Mauve#A690A8
  • Gray Lavender#A9A6C9
  • Gray Blue#8198AE
  • Slate Blue#5F7890
  • Grayed Turquoise#6FA3A3
  • Verdigris#6F9088
  • Cool Sage#93A99A

Neutrals

  • Off-White
  • Dove Gray
  • Taupe
  • Grayed Navy

Colors to avoid

  • Black
  • Bright Orange
  • Bright Yellow
  • Electric Fuchsia
  • Royal Blue#1F45C4
  • Cobalt Blue#0047AB
  • Cool Turquoise#0097A7
  • Emerald#00875A
  • Pine Green#0A5C4A
  • Violet#5B2A9D
  • Fuchsia#D4127C
  • Bright Cool Pink#F0388C
  • Raspberry Red#C8102E
  • Icy Pink#F6D5E3
  • Glacier Blue#CFE6F5
  • Icy Lemon#F4F29A

Neutrals

  • Black
  • Pure White
  • Steel Gray
  • Navy

Colors to avoid

  • Orange
  • Mustard
  • Warm Brown
  • Khaki

The four axes

All four axes differ, none is shared

Temperature, lightness, intensity and contrast: the gauge shows where each one sits, the table says it in words.

The two sub-seasons

  1. 1Soft Summer
  2. 2True Winter
Temperature
12Differs1 Neutral to cool2 Very cool
Lightness
12Differs1 Medium2 Medium to dark
Intensity
12Differs1 Very soft, grayed2 Saturated
Contrast
12Differs1 Low2 High

Line by line

Soft Summer and True Winter compared
What is comparedSoft SummerTrue Winter
TemperatureDiffersNeutral to coolVery cool
LightnessDiffersMediumMedium to dark
IntensityDiffersVery soft, grayedSaturated
ContrastDiffersLowHigh
Signature colorDusty RoseFuchsia
NeutralsOff-White, Dove Gray, Taupe, Grayed NavyBlack, Pure White, Steel Gray, Navy
MetalsBrushed silver, rose gold, white gold. Matte or satin finishes.Silver, platinum, white gold. Diamond, sapphire, emerald.
LipsRosewood, dusty rose, muted raspberry. Satin finishes.Raspberry, fuchsia, blue-toned red. Cool reds are your reds.
Hair colorAsh brown, ash dark blonde, soft brown. Very blended highlights rather than strong contrasts.Black, cool brown, ashy dark brown. Gray or white hair looks superb on you.

Soft Summer: how does a cool palette stay this hazy?

Softness leads. Temperature comes after it. It’s neutral to cool, close to the middle, and that can make gold and silver both look fine.

Depth sits in the middle. Intensity is very soft and grayed. Contrast is low, so hair, eyes and skin stay close together instead of standing apart.

Soft Summer is color seen through a haze. Dusty Rose. Gray Lavender. Verdigris. Every one of them carries some gray.

Loud colors overpower your face. A monochrome look is calmer on you than a sharp black-and-white pairing.

True Winter: what does clean, cold color do to a face?

Coolness leads, and it leads hard. This is a very cool sub-season, medium to dark in depth, with saturated color and high contrast. It isn’t a pale, icy palette. It’s a clean one.

Fuchsia, Royal Blue and Pine Green come with no haze over them. Black and Pure White look right side by side.

True Winter is the heart of Winter. Silver and platinum suit it far better than yellow gold. Anything orange-leaning, golden or brown makes the complexion look tired.

Four axes, no shared ground: what do they look like?

Soft Summer and True Winter have no axis in common. All four differ, so go through them one at a time.

Start with intensity. Soft Summer is very soft and grayed. True Winter is saturated. On a face, one looks blended and the other looks lit up.

Contrast is next. It’s low for Soft Summer and high for True Winter. Does your face melt into your hair and eyes, or does each feature stand out with a crisp edge?

Temperature needs a closer look. Soft Summer is neutral to cool, True Winter very cool. Both sit on the cool side, in different amounts.

Lightness comes last. Soft Summer sits in the middle, while True Winter runs medium to dark. That’s why black is a core neutral for True Winter and sits on the avoid list for Soft Summer.

What they share isn’t an axis: both metals lines include silver. That’s the overlap, and it’s a small one.

Dusty RoseSoft Summer
FuchsiaTrue Winter

The two-color test. In daylight, with no makeup, hold a piece of fabric in each of these two colors up to your face. Rest your eyes between the two and redo it another day. If the same color keeps winning, you have a direction: a first hint, not a verdict.

How does your face react when Dusty Rose meets Fuchsia?

Set up as in color draping at home, and you’ll only need two fabrics.

Hold Dusty Rose first, then Fuchsia. Ask three questions each time. Does your skin turn yellow or gray? Does the color look loud or faded on you? Do your features blur or stand out?

If Dusty Rose is the one that lets your face settle, that leans Soft Summer. If Fuchsia is the one that gives your features their edge, that leans True Winter. And if Fuchsia feels louder than you are, take note of that too.

Try the pair another day, in the same light, before you trust it. One session proves little. And if the same side keeps winning, you have a direction.

What if you sit between Soft Summer and True Winter?

It can feel that way. These two aren’t neighbors in the method: Soft Summer sits next to Soft Autumn, and True Winter next to Cool Summer. If your result tips toward one of those neighbors, read Soft Autumn vs Soft Summer or Cool Summer vs True Winter.

Look for your leading trait. If softness decides the call for you, lean Soft Summer. If coolness and crispness decide it, lean True Winter.

An app or a quiz can’t see whether your face blurs or sharpens under a color. The free color analysis quiz gives you a likely season and a hint of your sub-season. The drape finishes the job.

What do lips, eyes and hair say about your side?

Makeup shows the split in small ways. A satin rosewood or muted raspberry lip suits a Soft Summer face. A blue-toned red or a fuchsia lip suits True Winter. The Soft Summer makeup page goes further.

For eyes, Soft Summer’s makeup line is a smudged one, taupe or gray-brown. True Winter’s is a crisp black line. Hair splits too: Soft Summer’s line runs through ash brown and soft brown, True Winter’s through black and cool brown.

Keep exploring

More on these two sub-seasons

  • Makeup

    Soft Summer makeup

    Soft Summer makeup comes down to haze, not color: rosewood lips, taupe eyes, tea rose cheeks. See what to wear, what to skip and why it works on your face.

  • Hair color

    Soft Summer hair color

    Soft Summer hair color starts with ash brown, ash dark blonde and soft brown. Here is how to pick between them, what to skip and what to tell your colorist.

  • Outfits

    Soft Summer outfits and capsule wardrobe

    Soft Summer outfits made simple: eight capsule pieces, the order to build them, outfit formulas and the neutrals that replace black. Begin near your face.

  • Compare

    Bright Spring vs Soft Summer

    Bright Spring vs Soft Summer: three differences set them apart, temperature, intensity and contrast. See what each looks like on a face and how to decide.

  • Compare

    Cool Summer vs Soft Summer

    Cool Summer vs Soft Summer comes down to three differences: coolness, softness and contrast. Here is how they look on a face and how to settle it at home.

Questions

Soft Summer or True Winter: your questions

What is the quickest way to tell Soft Summer and True Winter apart?

Start with intensity and contrast. Grayed, blended color and a low-contrast face point to Soft Summer. Saturated, crisp color and a high-contrast face point to True Winter. Then hold Dusty Rose and Fuchsia near your face and see which one keeps your features balanced.

Does black work for Soft Summer and True Winter?

For True Winter, black is a core neutral, and it looks right with Pure White. For Soft Summer, black is on the avoid list because it overpowers a soft face. Soft Summer’s neutrals are Off-White, Dove Gray, Taupe and Grayed Navy.

Does gray hair point to Winter?

No. Gray or white hair looks superb on a True Winter, but hair isn’t the test. Cover it and watch what the colors do to your skin and your eyes, one at a time, in daylight.

The quiz says Soft Summer, but Fuchsia looks better on me. What now?

The quiz answers from what you tell it. The fabric answers from your skin. Repeat the Dusty Rose and Fuchsia comparison on another day with your hair covered, then read both season pages and pick the description that sounds like you.

Can Soft Summer and True Winter both wear silver?

Both have silver in their metals line, so it won’t separate them. Soft Summer’s line is brushed silver, rose gold and white gold, and it can go back and forth with gold. True Winter’s is silver, platinum and white gold, and it leans away from yellow gold. Look at intensity and contrast instead.

Which colors should each one avoid?

Soft Summer avoids Black, Bright Orange, Bright Yellow and Electric Fuchsia, which are too saturated or too sharp for it. True Winter avoids Orange, Mustard, Warm Brown and Khaki, which are too warm and turn the skin yellow.

Soft Summer or True Winter? Check it.

The free quiz shows you your likely season in two minutes. Then run the two-color test on your own bare face, in daylight: a first hint, not a verdict.